Lucknow Chikankari is one of India’s most cherished forms of embroidery, known for its grace and delicate beauty. This handcraft, originating from the city of Lucknow, involves intricate stitches that bring fabrics to life, creating elegant and detailed patterns. While Chikankari is celebrated for its understated elegance, it’s the variety of stitches used in this art form that makes each piece unique.
Let’s explore the different kinds of Lucknow Chikankari work and the special techniques that define this ancient craft.
1. Bakhiya (Shadow Work)
One of the most popular forms of Chikankari, Bakhiya or shadow work, involves creating stitches on the reverse side of the fabric, so the embroidery appears on the front as a subtle, shadowy design. This stitch is known for its understated charm and is often used to create floral patterns and vines.
- Technique: The thread is woven through the fabric, creating a shadow-like effect. Bakhiya is usually done on translucent fabrics like muslin or chiffon, where the shadow effect is most visible.
- Common Motifs: Flowers, leaves, and geometric shapes.
2. Phanda (Knot Stitch)
Phanda stitches are tiny knots that add texture and depth to the embroidery. These small, grain-like knots are often used to create the centers of flowers or buds, adding dimension to the fabric.
- Technique: Small, tight knots are created by looping the thread in a specific way, giving the fabric a textured appearance.
- Common Motifs: Flowers, buds, and dots.
3. Murri (Grain Stitch)
A cousin to the Phanda stitch, the Murri stitch involves creating small, elongated knots, giving the appearance of grains or rice-like shapes. This stitch is primarily used for creating the delicate centers of flowers and other intricate motifs.
- Technique: Similar to Phanda, but the stitch is elongated to resemble tiny grains.
- Common Motifs: Flower buds, grains, and petals.
4. Keel Kangan (Bracelet Stitch)
The Keel Kangan stitch is named after its resemblance to bangles or bracelets. It creates a thick, rounded design, often used to add emphasis to specific elements of the embroidery.
- Technique: This stitch is used to create circular or semi-circular shapes that mimic the appearance of bangles or loops.
- Common Motifs: Bracelets, bangles, and loops around flowers.
5. Jaali (Net Work)
Jaali work, or netting, is one of the most intricate forms of Chikankari. This stitch involves pulling the threads of the fabric apart to create small, open spaces that form a lace-like effect. The result is a mesh pattern that adds delicacy and intricacy to the embroidery.
- Technique: The threads of the fabric are carefully pulled apart without breaking them, creating a fine mesh or net design.
- Common Motifs: Geometric patterns and floral lattice designs.
6. Hool (Eyelet Stitch)
The Hool stitch is an eyelet-like stitch, which involves creating small holes in the fabric surrounded by intricate embroidery. This stitch adds texture and dimension to the fabric while allowing light to pass through, making it perfect for lightweight fabrics.
- Technique: A small hole is punched into the fabric, which is then carefully stitched around to create a neat eyelet.
- Common Motifs: Flower centers, buds, and eyelet patterns.
7. Tepchi (Running Stitch)
Tepchi is one of the simplest forms of Chikankari. It involves a basic running stitch that is used to create straight lines or borders around motifs. Though simple, it adds a refined outline to the embroidery, giving it structure and definition.
- Technique: A straight running stitch is worked along the outline of a motif, often in parallel lines.
- Common Motifs: Straight borders, leaves, and vines.
8. Zanzeera (Chain Stitch)
The Zanzeera stitch, or chain stitch, is used for creating fine outlines around motifs or as a decorative border. The stitch resembles a delicate chain, making it ideal for outlining larger motifs or adding a border to a design.
- Technique: A looped, chain-like stitch is created by repeatedly pulling the thread through the fabric in small, linked loops.
- Common Motifs: Outlines of floral motifs, vines, and borders.
9. Pechni (Encircling Stitch)
Pechni is often used in conjunction with other stitches to enhance the design. It involves wrapping the thread around the basic stitch to add thickness and dimension, creating a more pronounced effect.
- Technique: The Pechni stitch wraps around an existing stitch to give it a more defined, thicker appearance.
- Common Motifs: Floral designs, leaves, and vines.
10. Ghass Patti (Grass Leaf Stitch)
Ghass Patti is used to create leaf patterns and is commonly found in floral Chikankari motifs. It mimics the appearance of grass blades or leaves, giving the embroidery a natural, flowing look.
- Technique: Stitches are layered in a way that resembles blades of grass or leaves, giving a textured, lifelike appearance to the motif.
- Common Motifs: Leaves, vines, and floral patterns.
11. Khatao (Cutwork)
Khatao or cutwork involves carefully cutting out portions of the fabric and stitching around the edges to create decorative patterns. This form of Chikankari is intricate and adds a beautiful, lace-like effect to the fabric.
- Technique: Sections of the fabric are cut out, and the edges are stitched with intricate designs to prevent fraying.
- Common Motifs: Floral patterns, geometric shapes, and lattice designs.
12. Daraz (Seam Stitch)
Daraz is a stitch used in seam work, often in places where two fabrics are joined together. It is known for its decorative and functional purpose, as it not only holds the fabric together but also adds beauty to the seam.
- Technique: Decorative stitches are applied over seams, giving the joined fabrics a clean, polished look.
- Common Motifs: Seams, borders, and outlines.
Conclusion: The Artistry of Lucknow Chikankari
The variety of stitches used in Lucknow Chikankari is what sets this embroidery apart from other traditional crafts. Each stitch adds its own texture, depth, and charm to the fabric, making Chikankari a timeless and versatile art form. Whether it’s the subtle elegance of Bakhiya or the intricate beauty of Jaali, every stitch in Chikankari tells a story of craftsmanship and heritage passed down through generations.
Next time you see a Chikankari garment, take a closer look – you'll find that each piece is a unique work of art, with stitches that reflect the rich cultural heritage of Lucknow..